Material Insights · Understanding the Material World

Textiles and leather: Chokepoints and risks

Spinning, weaving and processing fibres into yarn and fabric, and hides into leather

Chokepoints and risks

  • Polyester is 59% of world fibre and 88% of it fossil-based, so fibre costs track crude oil and PTA cycles1.
  • Recycled fibre is only 7.6% of output, and less than 1% comes from recycled textiles, leaving the chain exposed to EU and brand circularity rules1.
  • Water and effluent permits limit dyeing and tanning capacity in Indian clusters, and closure orders can halt whole hubs.
  • US duties on Indian goods reached 50% in August 20255; a February 2026 deal dropped the 25% penalty and set an 18% rate6, and after the US Supreme Court struck down those tariffs a temporary 10% duty applied3, so access to the largest market stays uncertain.
  • Cotton output swings with monsoon and pests, and India's cotton is less traceable than brands now demand.