Material Insights · Understanding the Material World

Dyes

Synthetic dyes colour textiles, leather and paper; a roughly 1.35 Mt industry where China makes over 70% and India most of the rest.

Specialty chemicals · Coatings, adhesives & colourants · No. 84

  • Product family
  • Feedstock: Oil, gas or coal
  • about 1.35 Mt a year (2025, derived: China 983 kt at just over 70% of world output)
  • 10.0 t CO₂e per t
  • HS 320411, 320416
Specialty chemicals · Coatings, adhesives & colourants · Foundation · Matter

Almost every colourful shirt was dyed with chemicals from China or Gujarat, which together make nearly nine-tenths of the world's dyes.

Chart: Illustration: Dyes

Where it comes from

Chart: Map of where it comes from

Benzene and naphthalene are nitrated, sulphonated and reduced into intermediates, then coupled into azo dyes; each tonne of H acid leaves about 30 t of phenol-laden wastewater.

Three things to know
  1. Disperse dyes for polyester are about 40% of the market, because only small, non-ionic molecules can enter that water-shy fibre.
  2. Vat, sulphur and direct dyes make up about 12% of the market; indigo alone colours almost all denim.
  3. About 75% of India's dye output comes from Gujarat, where effluent rules are a major cost and closure risk.
The journey
  1. 1 AromaticsBenzene, toluene, naphthalene from refineries, coke ovens
  2. 2 IntermediatesNitrated, sulphonated, reduced into H acid, amines
  3. 3 Dye synthesisDiazotised and coupled in batch reactors
  4. 4 Dye bathDissolved or dispersed at textile mills
  5. 5 Coloured fabricPolyester, cotton, denim, leather, paper
Covered in The chemical industry: what it makes and how it is organisedChemicalsColour and protection: dyes, pigments, paints and coatingsChemicalsSoaps, detergents and agrochemicalsChemicalsHow a classic specialty chemical market works: the synthetic dye industryChemicalsBiorefineries and platform chemicalsChemicals
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